FREQUENTLY ASKED CANDLE QUESTIONS:
Q.
What are your candles made of?
A. All of our candles without exception, are hand-poured using 100% beeswax. There are
no chemicals, scents, dyes, or other adulterants in our candles. Our wicks are 100% cotton braid. These candles
are ideal for chemically sensitive individuals or those suffering from allergies.Q. Why choose real Beeswax?
A. So many Reasons!
1. Health. Burning 100% pure beeswax is good for you and your
home! No scents have been used nor are there any chemicals, paper or metals in the wicks. Therefore our candles
are ideal for those with allergies and/or multiple chemical sensitivity. Paraffin is a wax derived from oil, therefore
when you burn this in you home you are volitalizing hydrocarbons which you breathe and which contribute to indoor air pollution.
Conversely, beeswax, when burned, actually creates negative ions in the air, similar to those produced after a thunderstorm.
This is healthful.
2. Aesthetic. The flame of
a beeswax candle is so soothing and serene -- nothing like the "jumpy" flame produced by synthetics. Try it
for yourself. And the natural scent is...well, there's nothing like it. So wonderful! Just like honey!
(Note: the natural
beeswax has a much more distinctive and stronger aroma than the white.)
3.
Social. By supporting small family beekeepers, you are keeping money in the United States' rural areas, not exporting
jobs to China.
4. Environmental. Beeswax is renewable
and not made from oil. No toxic wastes are produced.
Q. How is it that you can offer
both natural-colored and white beeswax? Why the difference in the color?
A. The natural beeswax, our own or purchased from local beekeepers,
is melted from the "cappings" or by-product wax of the honey extraction process. As much honey as is possible is
removed. The mixture of wax and honey is then heated. The wax rises to the top and the remaining honey is drained
off. The beeswax is filtered to remove foreign objects. At this point, the color may range from light lemon yellow
to ochre to brown. The difference in color is primarily due to how light the wax was in the comb that the honey
was extracted from.
Q. How
do your candles burn?
A.
We spend a great deal of time test-burning new candles, determining which wick to use to ensure your candles will burn correctly.
All pillars, tapers and votives will burn very well with a minimum of dripping. Novelty candles (i.e., shapes) will
drip!! We have fitted them with the best wicks to minimize this but there is nothing that can be done to prevent it
so enjoy them as they burn!!! To avoid damaging your surfaces always use a suitable dish or holder under ANY candle
and NEVER leave a burning candle unattended.
Q. How is it that you can offer
both natural-colored and white beeswax? Why the difference in the color?
A. The natural beeswax, our own or purchased
from local beekeepers, is melted from the "cappings" or by-product wax of the honey extraction process. As much
honey as is possible is removed. The mixture of wax and honey is then heated. The wax rises to the top and the
remaining honey is drained off. The beeswax is filtered to remove foreign objects. At this point, the color may
range from light lemon yellow to ochre to brown. The difference in color is primarily due to how light the wax
was in the comb that the honey was extracted from. The white
wax is more highly refined. The bleaching
method to obtain our White Beeswax is not chemical, but it is a PHYSICAL METHOD. The Yellow Beeswax is warmed up to 100
°C and melted. Decoloration earth and coal (carbon) are added then it is filtered through a < 5
micron filter for a few times to obtain the
total elimination of the coal particles. The end result is a nice white product that is still pure beeswax and chemical-free.
Q. My candles have a whitish film
on them after being stored for a while. What do I do?
This film is called "bloom" and is actually a sign that you have pure beeswax candles.
It is harmless, and does not mean the wax is deteriorating in any way. To remove it on smoothly shaped candles, wipe
gently with a soft cloth. For deeply incised designs or novelty shaped candles, use a hair dryer set on medium.
Do not aim the dryer too long in one place or you will melt the wax! Keep the dryer moving. This treatment will
also refresh the scent of the candle, if it happens to diminish over time.
Q. How do
you know what kind of honey the bees are making?
A. Each area and time of year brings different blooms. With experience and knowledge
of local conditions, it is possible to set bees in a certain location during the bloom time of certain plants, for example,
wild blackberries or clover. When this bloom is finished, the bees are promptly moved to other locations and the honey removed.
Using this method it is possible to say that a certain honey is at least 80%, and may be up to 100%, of the named variety.
Some varieties, such as Wildflower and Spring Blossom, are by nature mixtures of flower nectars and the names reflect this.
Q. What are the different honeys like?
A. There are literally thousands of different
types of honey in the world. We offer some that are indigenous to our local area:
Oregon
Blackberry: Made from our abundant wild blackberry blooms. Very mild and fruity.
Wildflower: A late summer to fall honey, this
is a mixture of flowers. It has a stronger "honey" flavor due to dry conditions.
Spring Blossom: A mixture of spring wildflowers,
madrone tree blossom, and various types of native brush. Mild and probably sweeter than the other varieties. Popular
for spring allergy prevention.
Clover: Either a high desert clover from the bees' summer pastures (very light) or a cultivated
red clover grown for seed (more of an amber color). Both taste similar, and are familiar to many, as much commercial
honey is either clover, or a clover blend.
Q. Can I get all the honeys all year round?
A. No! We are a small producer and sometimes varieties
sell out during the year. To avoid disappointment, select a second choice when ordering. If you have your heart
set on a certain variety, e-meil us before ordering.
Q. Hey! My honey has gotten all hard in the jar -- I can hardly scoop it out!!
What do I do now? Has it gone bad??
Honey is a supersaturated sugar solution, and the sugar naturally likes to precipitate out of
solution. This causes the granulation. It is NOT a sign of spoilage; rather this shows you have a pure, natural product. Honey
from the supermarket or heated honey will not do this. You may find your raw honey has crystallized or "sugared up" after being
stored for a while...not a problem. To remedy this, place in warm sunshine (best) or a pan of warm (not over 130 degree
F) water and it will reliquefy in a jiffy. Use caution when using the hot water method if you have a plastic jar --
it is very easy to overheat the honey and melt the jar. Never microwave as this is injurious to the natural living enzymes
in the honey.